Wednesday, May 13

At 8 in the morning the beach is nearly empty and the pier is quiet and calm. I take my stripey mug to the bar where they obligingly fill it with tea and I stand in the early morning sunlight, sipping my steaming tea and enjoying the peacefulness of the new morning.


Soon, as the clock inches its way towards 9AM , a slow trickle of people start making their way down, eager to catch the first boats to Capri. Suddenly the pier is full of life, boats coming and going, people shouting and waving, taking photos, asking questions, running here and there. Amongst all the confusion we load up our fist boat fo people for Capri and wave them goodbye.

As the clock ticks on and the boats pull away all goes quiet again for a while. A brief respite before the next groups of ferries come in at 10AM, disgorging rowdy school groups and excited tourists. So many people mill around it is impossible not to bump into them so I retreat to the cabin and watch patiently.


As the pier empties once again we scan the horizon for Salvatore on his fishing boat. There he is, coming around the tower! We help carry this mornings catch up to the fishmongers, he's caught all sorts of fish, large octopuses, a scary looking eel and lots of crabs.

The sun is high now and I have to rub on some suncream. Morning is fast becoming afternoon and that fresh sparkly morning light has gone. Before I started working I though I would HATE getting up and going out early every morning, but I enjoy the tranquility and peace on the beach before everybody else gets there.

16 comments:

  1. It sounds so idyllic there. I'm sure it's not, at least not all the time. But you write of it in such a way that I want to visit. Thank you. x

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  2. Hey Charlie, I am downright PISSED at you for not mentioning your new blog to me yesterday when we chatted @ Chiesa Nuova or the other times!
    I foudn you through a blogger friend!!!
    Now I must read all the old posts and have absolutely no time to do that.
    ARGH!

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  3. Hey Anonymous May 13 1:29pm, Maybe Charlie was just protecting her real identity from the "evil" local(s) of Positano. Or maybe she is modest and didn't want to boast. Anywhoo, "no matter who you are and where you live, free speech is our one great privilege to embrace".

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  4. Thanks for sharing Charlie! I love the morning that's why I try to catch the sunrise, there is a peacefulness as I look out at the lake and feel that I am one with everything around me no hustle and bustle of the city or subway just peaceful solitude! aaahhhh I can just imagine it now. I can also smell the fish from your photo...ugh! I however would love some crab!

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  5. How and when can we meet up? It only takes me a sec to pop over to Positano...so let me know when you are free in the evening and maybe we can meet up for a drink! Parking wise do you know what I can do in Pos?

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  6. Thanks for sharing Charlie!
    Looks great and wonderful.
    Thank you.

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  7. Thanks for sharing this idlylic moment..it looks absolutely beautiful..and yes it might be a pain to get up early and enjoy the tranquility and peace on the beach before everybody else gets there.is BLISS!

    Cannot believe you are using suncream already, Oxfordshire is cold and wet..and might have to put the heating back on, it is so cold :-(

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  8. Heya

    Living in London, I can completley understand how you feel about the early morning. Due to shift work I am up and about sometimes at 5am and in the summer London is beautiful at that time. Standing on Tower Bridge watching the sunrise over Canary Wharf with only the odd other poor shift-working soul scattering about and complete quietness is amazing. There is hardly any traffic and London pretty much looks like a Ghost Town. 2 hours later it's bumper to bumper on the bridge and traffic fumes, tourists (do they not need any sleep ???) and traffic noises take over and London is back to "normal".

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  9. Dear Anon May 13 2:00PM.
    Charlie knows EXACTLY who I am and the right meaning of my comment.
    No need for anyone to protect her.
    She knows well who to fear and that is NOT me.
    Ciao

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  10. Oh I love your blog I came across it via Catherine @ Mollycupcakes. She had won some beautiful handmade soaps from you. I can almost smell the sea from your posts I love it.
    Mandy xxxx

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  11. New Orleans, LA, USAMay 13, 2009 at 8:37 PM

    I am so going to enjoy reading this for the next 10 months until I can see it for myself.

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  12. Hey Dollyna, don't be offended, it didn't even occur to me that you hadn't already found it! Welcome back and save the bits you haven't read for a rainy day!

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  13. Oh the heaven ... I feel like I'm on vacation for free :)

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  14. One of my favorite moments in Amalfi was the very last morning, when Alexander and I went out at 7.30 for a very expensive and chocolate-y breakfast in Piazza Duomo. The tourist hordes had not yet arrived/woken up, it was just us and the Amalfitans going to work, shopkeepers sweeping the streets and preparing for the day, fishermen returning from the sea with the catch of the day. Loved it. Hated that we had to leave.

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  15. Yes, this is when I love Pos too. Before 8 am just when the sun comes over the mountain - peace and tranquillity...

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  16. Nell said , the jelly fish are as transparent as the water they are floating in it s so crystal clean.I like the contrast of the pink and blue. Jelly fish do sting like the dickens but a little urine on it and its stops. Enchanting to look out to the sea early in the morning how lucky you are even is you do get very busy after.

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