Monday, November 11

Positano to Santa Maria del Castello (and back in a trash bag)

Sunday morning was sunny and serene. Around about 10am the doorbell rang. A couple of friends were climbing up to the top of the mountain for lunch, did we want to go to? Watching the last Harry Potter film was not a valid excuse so we pulled on our hiking shoes and set off.
We went the long way. It's a 3 hour climb uphill, all the way (obviously) but the views are worth the effort.
How prepared was Kate? She even brought a doggy bowl. I would have never thought of that.
A pine cone encrusted view along the coast towards Capri.
We took it slowly and had lots of litttle breaks along the way.
Frank dressed for the occasion and spontaneously burst into song every now and then. Frank is a mountain tour guide, you can find him here.
The pine forest is magnificent, but some of it was destroyed in that fire last year, even this high up.
We arrived at the Caserma Forestale, a small building with a place to make a fire and cook, and the possibility to camp out if you let the owners know before hand.
Here Frank declared he had found a 'dead dog' on the doorstep. Kate freaked and turned away, but then Frank 'saw it's ear twitch'. Skye fearlessly went up to the dead dog and pointed out that it was actually a discarded nylon bag and picked it up to show us. She teased Frank for the rest of the day, pointing out various 'dead dogs'.
2 and a half hours walk to Positano from here:

It was starting to get overcast and the sea was blending into the sky with cloud effects passing over the waves.
We came across a band of hunters spread across the mountainside.
Frank having a moment:
First sighting of our destination, Santa Maria Del Castello, a small village, thankfully with 2 restaurants.
One of the first houses we came to. A single sock and a hatchet, welcoming stuff... Anyway we decided to eat at the Sorgente del Melo. I didn't take any photos of our meal but HERE's a slideshow from last time we came.
While we ate the skies became darker and darker, and of course it started raining heavily. We were at the top of the mountain with no sweaters, coats, umbrellas or anything. It was also getting cold. We asked around the other diners to see if we could get a lift home, but there were only 2 spaces. I decided that Skye and I could walk down and Frank and Kate could get a lift. There was some discussion over this idea but I won, convinced it would be quicker to walk down.

Frank kindly gave Skye his rain jacket but he only had one. The restaurant owner was very kind and kitted me out with a couple of heavy duty trash bags, the latest fashion you know for descending mountains in style...
And so the race began. We set off in the rain. Who would get back to Positano first, the car or us?
It got darker quicker than I though it would, but we made it down to civilization in about 45 minutes ( torch apps rock!) The car beat us by about 10 minutes. I suddenly realized I was walking along the road still wearing my trash bags. I whipped them off and folded them away before I scared anybody.

And then we went home. And I lovingly stroked my poor rain jacket which I had not thought to bring along that morning, promising that next time I wouldn't forget it.


  1. How great a walk , and great when you can stop along the way :-) I remember the place you stopped to eat :-) I would too. Ha ha ha , love the fashion wear .. too . Bring your raincoat to England , you will need it. xx

  2. Great story! Trash bags - the new universal rain gear.............

  3. I love that you and Skye do so much adventuring together. I look forward to the day I don't have to strap two girls into carseats every time we want to go down the road!

  4. great blog!!
    we are thinking of doing in mid April the hike from Santa maria del castello to Caserma forestale (maybe with a detour to the I Trasiti) and back to Santa maria del castello - how are the views compare to the path of gods hike (Nocelle - Colle la Serra) are the temperature are colder here than on the path of gods (as it higher in the mountains?


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