In Naples it is very hard not to eat continuously. Walking through the streets you see food absolutely everywhere.
So as soon as we arrived we chose a random bar and enjoyed a second breakfast. Panini napolitano, cornetti stuffed with nutella or jam, sfogliatelle and of course coffee..
We were heading for the Cimitero di Fontanelle, an old ossuary in a cave, a fifteen minute walk form the metro station at Piazza Cavour.
Food everywhere you look...
And the dome of the Santa Maria della Sanita, vaguely similar to the church dome in Positano...
There's a little bit of history coming up, stick with me, it's interesting I promise!
The ossuary was founded in the 16th century when space in the city graveyards was running out. The bones were excavated and buried these caves, filling up fast when thousands of people died during the great plague of 1656.
In the 17th century a huge flood poured through the caves and washed the remains out onto the streets. The bones were eventually returned and the caves became a huge paupers cemetery, gaining even more remains after a cholera epidemic swept through the city in 1837.
In 1872 after a priest decided to exhume and catalog all the bones a strange cult began. People started to visit the caves, bringing gifts of flowers, rosaries and small offerings. They looked after or adopted skulls, cleaning then, naming them and placing them in boxes.
THey paid their respects to those who had been too poor in life to have respect, people who had been to poor to have a proper burial. The skulls were cared for by these people up until 1969 when it was declared just a little bit too strange, bordering on fetishism, and the caves were closed.
Now the cemetery is open again to visitors, entrance is free. (Nearest metro station is Piazza Cavour.)
On our way back from the caves we came across this graffitti...It's a birth announcement, "Little Koko' is born, congratulations bro!" Yep, that's right, don't bother paying for an ad in the local paper, just spray it across the front of your house!